Fair price for Miata?

$3900? That sounds more like "good" condition. This car looks more like "fair". I'd be happy with 3k. $1500 will only make them laugh.

ah Terry's car, which is a plus since he's a nice guy
next time he's at the Starbucks meet I'd ask him what he actually wants for the car
I think a flat $3K would be spot on
being the M edition it'll have a torsen limited slip iirc

here's a 96 M cheaper price but in rougher condition
http://www.clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=23551

I can't see the link you posted :-(

I don't even really care that It's an M (except for the LSD) since I'll be going ground-up slowly. 

Plans would be:
-wheels (light) and tires (fat and sticky)
-full bushing kit
-sways
-roll bar+frog arms
-coilovers (probably fortune auto if I did) ((maybe I can get him to cut a deal on car + coilovers))
-butterfly brace

And if the engine ever dies I'm putting in a 09+ 13b (WAY future)

If he can do 2500 I'd be ready to pull the trigger sooner rather than wait it out.  Then I could get a new top before this hellish winter hits.

you should know the stock wheels are exceedingly light, but not very wide
for wheels i recommend looking at 949 Racing 6UL's http://949racing.com/
or Goodwin-Racing selection is nice http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Parts/Miata/Wheels-Tires.html
Flying Miata has the butterfly brace http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?dept=15
between www.miata.net and www.clubroadster.net you should be able to finds links top anything you want

I had no idea you were looking for a miata! I just sold a '94 with 150K on it "B package" car with brand new top and no blemishes for $2k even. The guy I bought it from wanted $3600 and took the $2k that I got it for (and I then sold it to a buddy of mine who wanted it for his wife) - so dropping from 3900 to 2500 isnt unreasonable at all!

When you want to swap a 13B in it, let me know :) There is a ton of work involved, lol... completely worth it though.

I'm an rp-f1 fan and 16x7 is 9.8 lbs... tough to beat and I love me some twin spoke

I'll only join after I have the car... where should I take it to get a once over and leak-down test?

The top is easy.  The blemish a little more challenging.  The driver's seat may be the biggest challenge.  There are almost no "good" seats out there as replacement for the original leathers.  The skins from Mazdamotorsports are in the neighborhood of $500+/seat.  That alone could be nearly as expensive as the rest of your short term plans.  It certainly should effect the selling price.  At the minimum subtract the cost of the "essential" items to get it roadworthy before winter.

Mick Seal

It's getting a pre-sales inspection and leak down test from a local race shop next week so I'll know more then.  The roof is a must, the dent is no biggie and the seat is unimportant until much later.  I can get a cheaper shittier cover in the meantime.

You'll probably want to swap out the leather anyway if you plan to auto-x....

Get a good cheap Sparco Sprint or Speed model seat. They fit well and dont cost much. Makes driving the car fast a lot easier too...

I'm an rp-f1 fan and 16x7 is 9.8 lbs... tough to beat and I love me some twin spoke
I'll only join after I have the car... where should I take it to get a once over and leak-down test?

-brandini

Good Win has a good selection size and offsets of RPF1's at slightly lower prices tham Tirerack.
I would recommend at least doing some reading up at Miata.net, they're the most knowledeable site - a little on the stodgy side but they know there stuff

If you are going to autox or track it, your do not want to go bigger than a 15in wheel.  After that you are going to be messing with the gearing.  I was shocked when I swapped from a 15 back to a 14in for an event and the "butt dyno" felt that the car accelerated much better (the 13's where even better).  If I could find a good 14x7 or 14x7.5 and if someone made a good tire for it, I would be all over it.

I don't want to mess with gearing since I'll be driving it to meets and the dragon :-)

And 9.8 lbs is plenty light and I won't have as much sidewall flex.  The slimmest tire I'd use is a 40 series.

best of all you'll be starting one bracket higher than me in autoX
enjoy being in E

Autocross classing may be a consideration.  NASA classes are different from SCCA.  If you plan to run Stock (E stock) in SCCA you will be limited to the original wheel size and width.  Check out the rules at scca.org.  Also, if you leave the leather seats in the car for autocrossing a tray liner for your toolbox works great at keeping your butt from sliding around.  Changing wheel size and/or width will move you to most likely a street prepared class.

Mick

I run NASA and won't care about placing until I learn stick.


It'll stay stock until I'm limited by the car.

So the guy has swine flu so it'll be delayed a bit. 

But it'll need a tune-up since it's sans service records so I'll need:
Wires and plugs
Hoses, belts, fluids

Now I'm going to enlist all you miata heads out there to find deals on stuff:
-coolant reroute
-new radiator (guys on a miata forum said the plastic looks like it's on its last leg)
-hose and belt kit- silicone preferred but it has to be black
-timing belt and water pump kit
-new top with glass and defroster (or if anyone would let me borrow their hardtop for a few months)
-E-code round cibie headlights (I really want a low profile rectangle headlight but I'll have to see if Moss would sell me the brackets only from their projector setup)

poor Terry

wait till you see how easy basic maintenance on a miat is :D

Clubroadster.net is a good place to watch for deals and of course Craigslist

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/16-1009.html
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Parts/Miata/Radiators-Cooling/Hoses-Belts.html

Look at the Advertiser links on Miata.net for everything else
keep in mind if you get a rollbar that glass rear window aint gonna be happy

you guys should see the list of stuff I have lined up for this thing :-D  (no mods yet)